you're light years ahead of most when you start with a fresh tune up. eliminates that possibility. good job there.
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i'll try to put this in order of easest/simplest thing first.
remove distributor cap, start engine, see if the rotor turns. if not, that would be a timing belt issue. it's a non-interference engine. so you're ok there.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c15280051e70
next, pull a plug. put the boot back on and with an insulated pair of pliers, arc it to the head. start engine, see if you have spark. if not, test for 12 volts to the distributor. no voltage is a bad wire or an ignition switch(not tumbler) issue.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c1528005219d
then check coil,
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c15280051eda
it should be noted that coils can be ohms checked good on the bench. but it's not definitive. they cannot be ohms checked dynamically/definitively as heat skews resistance.
next is ignitor. no component testing for that. just R&R.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c15280051ee6
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if you have spark and the t-belt checks good, then it's likely a fuel delivery issue. the main relay is behind the kick panel at your feet. that controls the EFI system. then there's the circuit opening (fuel pump) relay up under the dash, center console next to the fire wall. if all that checks good, you wanna pressure test the fuel at the fuel rail with the regulator vacuum hose disconnected and plugged. that would point to pump, filters, or return over pressurization system.
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when you're done, pull the 15 amp EFI main fuse for 30 secs. key off. that will reset the ecu.
should purdy much cover all bases.
good luck!