Car audio amplifier and sub impedance question.?

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StuartC

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Will a Jensen PowerPlus 1302 push 2 12" kicker CVR 2ohm subwoofers wired in a series/parallel setup equaling a total 2 ohm impendance? Without burning out.

I'm a bit confused looking at the specs of the amp.

The specs are as follows:

* 1300 watt 2 channel high powered amp
* Designed to meet or exceed the CEA-2006 test standards
* 320 x 2 Watts RMS, 2-ohm
* 650 x 1 Watts RMS, 4-ohm Bridged
* Deep-bass reproduction
* Low harmonic distortion
* Low profile aluminum extruded heat sink
* Diagnostic LED's
* Compact design allows great flexibility in mounting
* Built-in low-pass and high-pass crossover filters for bi-amplifying the system
* Blue illuminated VU level meter and logos
* Encapsulated power and speaker connectors
* Green operation and red protection LEDs
* Protection circuit that safeguards against short circuits, DC-offset and thermal overload
* Variable bass EQ 0-12 dB at 45 Hz
* Dimensions: Width (inches): 15.5 x Height (inches): 2.3 x Depth (inches): 11.6 x Weight (lbs): 11.4
* Pass Through outputs
* Power Source: 12V
* Frequency Response Low (in Hz): 5
* Frequency Response High (in Hz): 60000
* VU output level Meters
* Fuse/Type: Thermal Overload
* Stereo Outputs + Input
* Power Terminal: Encapsulated
* Amplifier Class: AB
* 650 watts RMS Output
* Response Low (Hz): 5
* Response High Hz: 60000
* Signal to Noise: 100
* Low profile Aluminum extruded heat sink
* Pass-Thru RCA's
* Variable Bass EQ 0 - 12dB @ 45Hz
* 12dB / octave Low Pass and High Pass filters
* Variable Input Level 400mV - 5V
* Encapsulated power and speaker connectors
* Short circuit, DC-offset and Thermal Overload protection circuitry
* Blue illuminated VU level meter(s)
* Diagnostic LED's - Green: Power, Red: Standby / Fault
* Low Pass filter 50 - 250Hz
* High Pass filter 40 - 500Hz
* High Pass / Low Pass / Full Range selector switch
* Stereo/Mono Mode switch
* Remote Input Level Control w/ 5 meter interface cable
* Load Impedance: 2-4ohm
* Signal to Noise @ 1 kHz: >100dB (rated power)
* Channel Separation @ 1 kHz: >60dB
* Frequency Response: 5-60 kHz, -3dB
* Input Impedance: 20 kHz, nominal
* THD+N @ 5 watts: 0.02%, 1 kHz, 14.4VDC
* Fuse rating: 60A

Part of the manual says :

Amp will not drive a 1
ohm mono load, 2 ohm
minimum in mono
configuration

Does that mean the amplifier is stable at 2ohms when both channels are bridged?
Edit: Also, if bridging isn't necessary, does that mean that I can just wire both subs in parallel to produce a 1ohm load each then hook them each to their own channel? And the RMS 320w x 2 @ 2 ohms means to ohms total, not 2 ohms per channel, 4 ohms total?
 
Yes it will.......But you dont need to bridge anything it says 320x2 subs @ 2ohms, Go to crutchfield's sub wiring diagrams to wire the subs correctly in order to get the best juice outta that amp. I personally would upgrade as soon as you can save up to get a better amp, I am sure your subs can take a good beating. You will get around 325watts to each sub once you have wired them at 4ohms....That is if the amp actually puts that much power out. Do sum reasearch on the amp and get other views from people who have own that amp.

Good luck wit dat.
 
yes it is stable @ 2 ohms x 1 channel. However note the amp is rated at 14.4 volts DC . The over all power output will drop dramatically at lower voltages . Also note most car stock alternators can not handle a 60 load added draw. It will shorten the life of the alternator and possible cause spikes in the system .They can affect other parts of the cars electrical system like the ecm module and on board computers. They need a constant 12.4 to 14.4 volt input to operate properly. You really need to upgrade the alternator to get the rated output of this amp. You need at least a alternator that has a 150 amp output to handle the load the amp with put on it . also i would upgrade the battery to a better load battery and add a cap as well . people often over look at what voltage a amp is rated at. That is a very important note . As with a added load a stock alternator will never get to 14.4 volts. Most alternators put out only 12.8 volts at idle to 14.4 80 to 90 Amps peak @around 4000 rpm A amp rated @14.4 will only putout about half or less of the rated output at 12.8 volts. rule one you have to feed the amp to get the output .. the less you feed it the less the out put will be at any ohm load. I try to only buy amps rated at around 13 volts . As it is easier toy get a electrical system to produce the power needed to make the rated output . Knowledge is from 15 years of sound system design and installation.
 
Yes it will.......But you dont need to bridge anything it says 320x2 subs @ 2ohms, Go to crutchfield's sub wiring diagrams to wire the subs correctly in order to get the best juice outta that amp. I personally would upgrade as soon as you can save up to get a better amp, I am sure your subs can take a good beating. You will get around 325watts to each sub once you have wired them at 4ohms....That is if the amp actually puts that much power out. Do sum reasearch on the amp and get other views from people who have own that amp.

Good luck wit dat.
 
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