THE_SILENT_LINE
New member
I've noticed that you have been pasting in prewritten answers that do not answer the askers questions. While it's great that you want to help the community, posting up repetitive answers that do not answer the questions is a waste of time of the voters. It seems that sparky gets a thumbs down and your generic answer is usually the next one down.
"Recommended for best sound Quality
amp+ to sp1+ sp1- to sp2+ sp2- to amp-
Will give you 8 ohm and Peak at 4 ohm at max power"
false - peak at 4 ohms at max power? even if box rise was factored in, the variables cannot be calculated without in car testing and certainly wouldn't be consistent through the entire frequency range
"First U need 0 gg Power cable if you r serious for + and -"
So you install 1/0 in every install you do? Not everyone is drawing 300A so 1/0 would be a waste
"A 80 amp or 165 amp Alternator"
Srsly? So you'll install wire rated up to 300A but run a 80 or 165A alt? And where did you get those numbers from?
"Hard core Fuse Holder with either 100amp, 150amp, 200amp fuses"
Why run wire rated to 300A if your load is 100 - 200A?
"10 s will give you Harder bass"
srsly? My 18s would destroy those 10s (and sound good doing it)
"I have used 10s inCompetitionn and beaten 15s"
Good installs > bad installs, this is certainly possible
"ACapacitorr for your full range Fill if you choose to have one"
even if a/c waves are smoother this wouldn't be necessary in typical diy installs
"also a good box design to suit your subs"
Also have to factor in the vehicles tuned fq and power to the subs
"1 car audio battery will be fine for normal use ( Optima is a good
brand ) but if you want to show of 2 or 3 would be even better"
There are calculators to determine minimum reserve current, not just throwing in 2 or 3 batteries for show.
Many things need to be factored in when designing a system....the generic pasted response is too vague and is not much help to audio newbs.
"Recommended for best sound Quality
amp+ to sp1+ sp1- to sp2+ sp2- to amp-
Will give you 8 ohm and Peak at 4 ohm at max power"
false - peak at 4 ohms at max power? even if box rise was factored in, the variables cannot be calculated without in car testing and certainly wouldn't be consistent through the entire frequency range
"First U need 0 gg Power cable if you r serious for + and -"
So you install 1/0 in every install you do? Not everyone is drawing 300A so 1/0 would be a waste
"A 80 amp or 165 amp Alternator"
Srsly? So you'll install wire rated up to 300A but run a 80 or 165A alt? And where did you get those numbers from?
"Hard core Fuse Holder with either 100amp, 150amp, 200amp fuses"
Why run wire rated to 300A if your load is 100 - 200A?
"10 s will give you Harder bass"
srsly? My 18s would destroy those 10s (and sound good doing it)
"I have used 10s inCompetitionn and beaten 15s"
Good installs > bad installs, this is certainly possible
"ACapacitorr for your full range Fill if you choose to have one"
even if a/c waves are smoother this wouldn't be necessary in typical diy installs
"also a good box design to suit your subs"
Also have to factor in the vehicles tuned fq and power to the subs
"1 car audio battery will be fine for normal use ( Optima is a good
brand ) but if you want to show of 2 or 3 would be even better"
There are calculators to determine minimum reserve current, not just throwing in 2 or 3 batteries for show.
Many things need to be factored in when designing a system....the generic pasted response is too vague and is not much help to audio newbs.